Turkish Delight

Last painting...

2008-05-22T10:47:00.000-07:00

This is my last Turkey-trip-inspired painting. It was inspired by the view from the hot air balloon in Cappadocia. I definitely have a thing for birds eye views!

And here is my photo that I based it on:

On the Istanbul Modern...

2008-05-18T20:04:00.000-07:00

(Here's the other article I wrote for Les Arts Turcs...it's about the Istanbul Modern art museum!)

When I say Turkish art, what comes to mind? Calligraphy…pottery…rugs? Yeah, me too. That is why when I heard about a contemporary art museum in Istanbul I simply had to pay a visit. Although the traditional arts of Turkey are beautiful and rich, I wanted to add new images to my mental slideshow. I wanted to see what Turkish art is now.

Istanbul has had a happy gallery scene and even held a contemporary art biennial for a couple decades, but there has been no real institution before now. The Istanbul Modern is the first and only contemporary art museum in Istanbul, and it’s less than 4 years old. The Istanbul Modern is in a large beautifully renovated warehouse on the Bosphorus. I found it poignant how it’s such an industrial-chic art space positioned next to the large Tophane Mosque. The architectural juxtaposition captures how Istanbul is a mixture of old and new…traditional and progressive…eastern and western. It’s a lovely and stimulating balance.

I read a lot of the artworks as a visual conversation between the Turkish culture I was getting to know and Western art that I already understand. I spotted familiar styles I knew but with new Turkish settings and subjects. There was everything from impressionistic landscapes to minimalistic modern paintings… video installations to assemblage sculptures. To see this mutual exploration of materials and universal themes felt reaffirming to me. So even though I admitted I didn’t know anything about contemporary Turkish art before, I actually did.

There were a lot of great artists whose names I jotted down, but I’ll just introduce you to my favorite two: Erol Akyavas and Balkan Naci İslimyeli.

I love when kids draw complicated structures when they don’t know how to, because it ends up this amazingly irrational creation. Like unintentional cubism. Erol Akyavas’ unhindered paintings made me think of this very phenomenon, which I was thankful to be reminded of again. His architectural structures are surreal and natural, actually succeeding at recreating that childlike naiveté. But formally they are so well composed that this prevents it from becoming too chaotic.

Working in a completely different style, Balkan Naci Islimyeli’s artwork is rooted more in reality rather than fantasy. He explores the role of the individual in a changing society, often incorporating his own writing or his portrait in his work. I appreciated the diversity of mediums he utilizes…everything from drawings to sculptures to installations. You can really see his interest in film by how he composes his pieces, his black and white color palette (he’s definitely into exploring the metaphorical shades of grey), and his articulate use of contrast.

After days of exploring traditional bazaars and mosques in Istanbul, a visit to the Istanbul Modern is a refreshing and enlightening introduction to the other side of Turkish culture. And, oh yeah… it’s free on Thursdays.

For easy-to-digest info on specific movements in Turkish art history, click here.

Travel like an artist

2008-05-13T14:40:00.000-07:00

(I wrote this for the Les Arts Turcs website)

How to travel like an artist

While traveling around Turkey, I noticed that whenever I was carrying my art portfolio then people treated me differently. Instead of being some random tourist I became the traveling artist. This means I instantly gain some sort of mystique, and a license to do things that normal people might consider odd. “Why is she doing that? Ohhh, she’s an artist...” It got me thinking about how artists experience new places differently. Here I have outlined my advice for how to travel like an artist…because I find that it encourages certain behaviors that I think all travelers can benefit from.

Take it slow.
So many tourists pride themselves on how MUCH they see. “I did 3 countries in 7 days!” But this type of travel doesn’t allow you to get to know a place at all. Artists know how to travel…instead of rushing around, you see them at cafes hanging out. They soak up the atmosphere rather than running down a list of places to see. You must do some sightseeing, of course. But I limit the amount of time each day I do “touristy things.” Then I give myself permission to simply take everything in at a relaxed pace.

Keep it real.
In my experience, I find that artists have less tolerance for artificiality. We tend to look for authenticity and strive to get to the truth of the matter. So while traveling, we want to get to know the real character of a place. For example, in Istanbul you’d skip the touristy whirling dervish show and go to one of the traditional religious ceremonies instead. It might take more research or be less convenient, but ultimately it is much more fulfilling. You can also get to know some locals rather than only hanging out with other tourists. (It’s easier to do this when you are traveling solo.) This simply requires finding out where the local folks hang out and having a social attitude. And if this all sounds too daunting, there is one easy way to get to know the real city…get lost! Wander around and simply explore new parts of town. But…take a map of course, and know where the dodgy parts of town are. We want real, but not too real.

Take risks.
You are not at home...hence, you are not at home! Therefore the rules of home do not apply to you anymore. Artists are used to people looking at them funny, so the chance to eat some dish you cannot pronounce or to hop onto the back of a motorbike doesn’t even warrant a debate. In a situation where everything is new you can let yourself look at it all with childlike wide-eyes. Travel is an adventure! Even though the unknown might be uncomfortable, you should let yourself indulge your curiosity. Because…why not? No one there knows you anyway.

Tickle your imagination.
There are always things you are “supposed to do” when you travel to specific countries. For example, in Turkey you must see Istanbul and then next on the list is generally Epheses. But on my trip…I skipped Ephesus. Why? Well, beaches and Roman ruins simply don’t fascinate me as much as exotic mountains and caves. (So I spent more time in Cappadoccia instead.) Artists are generally in tune with their unspoken needs and desires, so they tend to carve out their own individual path. By following your instinct and your distinct imagination, you can create an itinerary that is unique to your interests. And you’ll run into fewer tour groups.

Learn by doing.
I think that the best way to get to know a place is to learn about its culture. And the best way to learn is by doing. We learn more authentically when we go beyond mere fact to observing, experiencing, mimicking, and processing new concepts on a personal level. This can be as simple as learning to speak some basic phrases in Turkish. Artists tend to take this a step further by copying patterns, drawing people, sketching buildings, etc. When you copy something, you get to know it on a more intimate level than by merely snapping a photo. But you don’t have to be an artist to try a new dance, cook a local dish, or learn what traditional designs mean. When you’re looking to learn, you find that everyone has something to teach you.

Mr Duck

2008-05-09T11:23:00.000-07:00

As many of my friends know, my Mr Duck accompanies me on my travels. He's 10 years old now, so he's definitely been around! So here is the Mr Duck series from Turkey...enjoy! (Oh, I must explain the picture of him in the water at Pamukkale: some Aussies helped me place him in the water up the mountain and then catch him downstream, so I could chase him and take his picture as he floated along! It was quite an adventure for him.)

Last crop of Turkish art...

2008-05-08T15:17:00.000-07:00

Here's the rest of the art I made in Turkey! I averaged almost one artwork a day...which I think is pretty darn good.

In Goreme I befriended a family that ran a rug business, so I'd hang out in there and look at all the different patterns...

I drew a realistic sketch of Cappadocia before, so with this drawing here I wanted to do a more whimsical take on the landscape. This was the view from my room...

I used that same style back in Istanbul to draw the Aya Sofya. This was my view from Les Arts Turcs...

Anyone who has been to Turkey can verify this statement...that the locals drink A LOT of tea! And as a visitor you are always offered cups of tea (cai) in one of these cute little tulip shaped glasses. I began to wonder how much I was consuming on a daily basis! I used brown ink so it would look like it was painted with tea...

Leaving Istanbul...

2008-05-08T13:50:00.000-07:00

These are some final pics from when I returned to Istanbul before flying home...

My last day there was a big gypsy festival down by the seaside...lots of dancing and great music!

I went with Les Arts Turcs to an authentic whirling dervish ceremony. Dervishes practice Sufi Islam, and the priests spin themselves as a form of meditation. It was very intense and powerful to experience! You can read an article about the ceremony here. (This is a stock photo, since you cannot take pictures obviously...)

My whole visit I kept making Alp promise to take me around Istanbul on his motorbike--it's definitely the best way to explore the city!

And here was the view flying out...goodbye, Turkey!

My trip was, for lack of better words, AWESOME! The trip was especially fulfilling because I spent almost the entire time with local folks rather than other travelers...and this was thanks to my friends at Les Art Turcs. Through their hospitality I was able to experience real Turkey...

Les Arts Turcs is a 10 year-old collective of
painters, photographers, artists, singers, journalists, professional guides and entrepreneurs based in Istanbul. Their aim is to meet people from all over the world, promote communication between cultures, and to bridge the artistic/cultural gaps that have formed over time. They offer classes in dance, art, language, and cooking. They offer specialty tours and workshops catered to your specific interests (from modern art to Turkish baths) in Istanbul and other regions of Turkey. And of course, they're the folks that Lonely Planet recommends if you want to see a real whirling dervish ceremony!

So I must thank Nurdogan...you can always find him here in their office in Sultanahmet. He knows everyone, and wants you to get to know everyone, too! He will greet you with a smile, offer you endless cups of tea, and he might even teach you some Turkish dance moves if you're lucky!

And I must also thank Alp, who works at LAT and volunteered to be my guide around the city without even knowing me. (His efforts to find vegetarian food for me must be commended!) I am so thankful we developed such a good friendship. Here's his picture at the nargileh cafe...

If you visit Istanbul, pay Les Arts Turcs a visit! It's a great place to meet other creative folks and chat over glasses of tea within view of both Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. And it's perfect if you need a quiet sanctuary where you can make art while listening to Nurdogan's massive Turkish music collection.

Their latest big project is the Istanbul Photo Contest...they are welcoming international photographers of all skill levels to submit their best pics of their unique city. The deadline in in November, and the top prizes are free stays in Istanbul.

Gule gule!

Pics from Cappadocia

2008-05-07T12:12:00.000-07:00

Cappadocia!

I had a dream about this place two years ago (I even did a drawing about it) and now I finally got to see it for myself! And the fact that is was used as the set for planet Tatooine in Star Wars made it extra cool. It definitely lived up to its expectations.

I liked finding faces in the rocks (of course, most people see other body parts)...this one looks surprised.

I've never been up in a hot air balloon before, so a sunrise view over Cappadocia sounded like a great introduction.

I also hiked the Ihlara gorge...

...and explored the underground city of Derinkuyu...

...and the Goreme open air museum...

...and climed around the Selime Monastery...

...and was surprised by the vivid paintings in the cave churches. (The lack of sunlight has thankfully prevented them from fading)

The village of Avanos is known for its pottery, so I tried out a foot operated pottery wheel for myself. The results were...unique.

Oh, I'll miss sleeping in a cave! Sigh...

More travel drawings...

2008-05-03T08:03:00.000-07:00

In Pamukkale I didn't draw anything--mostly because my bag was lost at the airport so I didn't have my art supplies (let alone...well, anything!) most of my visit. So here is what I've made since arriving in Cappadocia a couple days ago.

Here I copied a very traditional tile design here in Turkey...you see this blue tile everywhere. The word turquoise was actually comes from the French, meaning "color of the Turks." Oh, and tulips originally came from Turkey...they are very proud to point this out!

This is a drawing of my favorite restaurant here in Göreme (Cappadocia)...appropriately called Göreme restaurant! It's a good place to sit and enjoy some cai...

This morning I hiked over into Pigeon valley, sat down in a fıeld, and drew this picture quickly since it was starting to rain on me! Some of the unique rock formations here, which I'll post pictures of later!

Pictures from Pamukkale

2008-05-03T06:34:00.000-07:00

I left Istanbul on Monday for the town of Pamukkale...it is famous for its white cliffs. The travertines are made by all the calcium in the water...it's pretty surreal.

Here is my "the hills are alive" pose...

There is also an antique pool full of column fragments (and Russian tourists)...

Above the travertines you can visıt the sprawling ruins of the Roman site Hierapolis.

Pamukkale has been a spa town since the Romans (and the Byzantine, then Jewısh, then Christian...) so of course I had to try out a mud bath. Here is a thankfully blurry picture...

And then of course you have to take a soak ın the very hot natural springs (It was about to pour down rain)...

Next blog I'll post some art!

Istanbul: Part 2

2008-04-28T06:28:00.000-07:00

More pictures from Istanbul! Here is ıt's most famous buıldıng...Aya Sofya! The combinatıon of Chrıstıan and Islamıc ımagery was sımply great. When I walked ınsıde, the words "Holy crap" unconsciousley fell from my lips.

The Baslica Cistern...the water-fılleunderground cistern buılt by the Romans.

Working on art at Les Arts Turcs...

My new photographer frıend Yeni Klasor was capturıng the Aya Sofya's reflectıon ın my eyes...

The very large very easy to get lost ın Grand Bazaar!

Mr. Duck in the Spice Bazaar. (Oh, the sweets!)

Going out in Nevizade...

Dance performance at Dans Bulusma (the cat accıdentally joıned the performance, you can see her head in the white fluff)

Smoking a hookah at Corlulu Alı Pasa Medressi wıth Alp. Add chaı and a stray cat hangıng up on my lap and ıt was pretty much perfect.

The Cemberlitas Hamam...where you can lie naked on a hot stone and get scubbed down by old topless Turkısh women. Awesome! (Thıs ıs a stock photo, you cannot take pictures of course!)

More Istanbul Inspired Art...

2008-04-27T04:40:00.000-07:00

This comic is about a moment when I was at the Topkapi Palace a few days ago. I was takıng pictures of the beautıful tileş and when I turned around I found myself surrounded by a group of Turkish high school girls taking my picture! I guess it was because my hair was all fancy-shmancy. I turned bright red and scampered away.

This was a conversation with Alp that I found amusing. I mean, Istanbul has 1800 mosques! So 5 times a day you can hear it no matter where you are.

I was playing around with some calligraphy here usıng a wooden stylus...these are different names for Allah. (These are like the round signs in Aya Sofya)

This is a larger calligraphy drawing--it's one of the Sultan's signatures. I believe the three vertical flags represent the three continents (Asia, Africa, Europe), the writing under the flags reprent the parents of the Sultan, the broad horizontal swishes represent greatness and power, and the little symbol is that Allah is great.

Istanbul: Part 1

2008-04-24T09:34:00.000-07:00

So...Turkey is amazing! Istanbul is more lovely, charming, and welcoming than I expected. Alas, the Turkish keyboard is far different than what I'm used to so I am afraid I will have to keep my wrıtten musings brief. (And apologize for when I mistype my i's!)

Here was my first breakfast ın Istanbul at Les Arts Turcs. They are actıng as my hosts while I am here...I will write much more about Nurdogan and what his center ıs about as I am here. You can see Alp taking my pıcture ın the window's reflection...

From Les Arts Turks you can see both Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. What a view!

Here is the famous Blue Mosque...

The Istanbul Modern, which is theır modern art museum. (An interestıng juxtapositıon of old and new)

The massive Topkapi Palace, home of the sultans. (The size of the whole estate is half the size of the country of Monaco)

The Harem of the palaceş which is bıgger and more elaborately decorated than you can imagıne!

There is also an amazing Archeological Museum at the palace...

Istikal, the lively street where everyone hangs out at night.

This is the view from the window of where I am staying at the moment. I have to swıtch hotels sadly, so I will miss climbing onto this roof at night!

Fırst batch of art

2008-04-24T03:48:00.000-07:00

This drawıng I made at the airport while waitıng for my flight. It's about the art I made last week about springtıme in New York. Not about Turkey exactly, but ıt was a good way to waste time at the aırport bar.

I wanted to make a painting about the view from the plane of the countryside as we were flying into Turkey...the green patches of farmland in different patches of color. Here is the fırst version, but I didn't like how it turned out.

...So I cut it up and made a different version that I like a lot more. It' more quilt-ey.

Last night I climbed onto the roof of where I am staying and watched this big flock of seagulls flyıng around the turrets of the Blue Mosque. It was sorta magıcal.

The Plan

2008-04-16T12:49:00.000-07:00

On Monday I leave for Turkey for my two week solo adventure! Here's the plan: Istanbul for the first week...then in the second week visit Hierapolis/ Pamukkale, Konya, and Goreme in Cappadocia.